The Crown Inn is a higgledy piggledy old pub with low ceilings, exposed beams and creaky floors. That said, it’s not your average market town local – what sets it apart from its four competitors on Old Amersham’s high street is the décor and the food.

On the first point, this pub is minimalist – there’s not a hint of the olde worlde clutter of Amersham’s other pubs.

In the bar and reception, the natural wooden floors and Farrow & Ball-esque hues of paint let the building’s character speak for itself. Attractive mismatched furniture, armchairs and sofas offer a welcome spot to curl up with the papers, and there are plenty of corners and alcoves to retreat to for peace and quiet.

The absence of fussy fittings works well in the airy reception. Behind the desk, shelves are loaded with huge jars of homemade chutneys, setting the tone for this foodie retreat.

The Cock, Stony Stratford, Buckinghamshire

Mystery Guest discovers a fine pub at the root of one of Britain's quintessential idioms

The Crown Inn, Old Amersham, Buckinghamshire

Spartan decor and creaky floors at this old-meets-new foodie pub

BACKGROUND

• The Crazy Bear, Beaconsfield, Buckinghamshire

• Jurys Inn, Milton Keynes

• Stoke Park Club, Stoke Poges, Buckinghamshire

• Hartwell House, Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire

• The Compleat Angler, Marlow, Buckinghamshire

Related Internet Links

• More hotels in Buckinghamshire and the Midlands

We got a warm welcome from the receptionist, who invited us to nibble on a homemade biscuit while we went through the brief check-in procedure. She directed us to our room (it pays to listen as it’s a rabbit warren on the first floor).

While I liked the décor downstairs, upstairs felt a little too spartan.

The blank walls in our bedroom could have done with some arty photography or discreet modern art, or even just a big feature window.

The simple, large bed had crisp white duvet and wool blanket. It was extremely comfortable bar the gap at the head of the bed where the mattress stopped and the frame met the wall.

Some classic novels on a shelf provided decoration, but the most colourful feature was the red digital radio on the bedside table. A thoughtful addition was the hamper instead of a minibar, with a note to order drinks from downstairs if you wanted them chilled.

The bathroom was roomy and minimalist again, with a good-sized shelf for your wash bag and a pleasant smelling and attractive brand of toiletries called Aesop. My only disappointment was the shower – it was powerful and hot, but the tiled floor and bottom of the walls were a little scummy.

The 37 bedrooms are all different owing to the unique layout of the building, so some may have been less austere than ours. That said, it had everything one needed – comfort, space and the essentials – iron and board, television, desk, bathrobes, and tea and coffee basket.

We ate our evening meal in the pub, rather than adjoining restaurant as it was a quiet Sunday night. The same menu is served in both, but I’m told the restaurant offers more serenity on busy nights.

Times recommends

• The smart guide to travel blogging
• 30 top takes on New York
• Europe's 20 best Christmas markets 2009