Stephen Bleach
Grab an Italian masterpiece for less

Yes, I know it’s September. Yes, I know the ho-ho hype starts earlier every year, and this is a deeply bad thing, robbing the festive season of its uniqueness and magic.
So yes, I know saying this won’t make me popular. But it’s time to think about Christmas. Specifically, where you’re going to have it. Because if you want to make it extra-special by going away, you’re going to have to move fast.
Times being what they are, not so many of us can afford a hotel this year — which means the best countryside cottages are being snapped up fast.
Never fear, though: there are still some great ones left, places where you can really make the most of the festive season, with antique charm, roaring fires, Agas for the dinner and country walks in the crisp air to work it off.
Here’s our pick.
Sitting pretty on a steep slope above tiny Church Cove on Cornwall’s Lizard peninsula, the Round House is a quirky little bolt hole for a romantic, coupley Christmas. The circular stone cottage houses the original capstan used to haul boats up the slipway, but it could have been built for snuggling up behind the gorgeous 3ft-thick stone walls and admiring the picture-window view as winter does its dramatic worst to the seascape outside. Sleeping two, it costs £615 for seven nights from December 20, with Cornish Cottages (01326 240333, cornishcottagesonline.com).
If you want to be festive with the folks — lots of ’em — Cornwall also has Pentillie Castle (01579 350044, pentillie.co.uk). This extraordinary Georgian building, dating from 1809, has just been refurbished: it was featured on Channel 4’s Country House Rescue earlier this year. In its own estate (the gardens are by Repton), overlooking a sweeping curve of the River Tamar, it’s fearfully posh inside, exquisitely furnished and warmed by traditional fires. The price is suitably monumental — £5,450 for five nights from December 23 — but split it between 18 of you and it’s almost reasonable.
Devon has more cottages than anywhere else in the country, so there’s still a good choice of properties on offer. In the smart South Hams, near Salcombe, there’s Little Maryknowle, a neatly converted 19th-century stone barn with a wood-burner and two kitchen ranges, so there’s room to make the most lavish dinner. To help it go down, get a blast of festive fresh air on North Sands beach and the coastal path. The owners lay on tree, trimmings, chilled bubbly and stacks of logs. Sleeping 12, it costs £2,100 for Christmas week, with Coast and Country (01548 843773, coastandcountry.co.uk).
Couples should try the Bothy, a sweet, ivy-clad 16th-century cottage hidden away down a long, unmade lane a few miles from Crediton. There’s a wood-burner in the cosy sitting room, a welcome hamper of seasonal food in the kitchen, and splendid isolation for the two of you. Seven nights from December 23 cost £447, with Toad Hall (01548 853089, www.toadhallcottages.co.uk).
Traditionalists will love Monks Cottage in Heanton: thatched, whitewashed and crisscrossed with beams, it’s also right next to the village’s 16th-century church, which holds an inspiring midnight Mass on Christmas Eve. It comes with a wood-burner in the inglenook and a tree and decorations for the season. Sleeping four, it costs £812 for the week starting December 20, with Marsdens (01271 813777, marsdens.co.uk).
Also good if there’s a big gang of you is Parnacott, a Grade II-listed Georgian house near Holsworthy, set in 12 acres of gardens, sleeping 14 (that’s nearly an acre each). It’s really rather splendid, with ancestral oils on the walls, period furniture and seven comfy bedrooms (you’ll have to fight for the one with the carved oak four-poster). They go to town on the decorations: the halls (and everywhere else) will be properly decked with holly, candles and more, and there’ll be a tree opposite the fire in the living room. It costs £3,225 for Christmas week, with Helpful Holidays (01647 434063, www.helpfulholidays.com).
Time for something uplifting. If you want to soothe your soul as well as your body, go for Crane Street, a Grade-II listed building in the beautifully preserved historic centre of Salisbury, Wiltshire. The three-bedroom upper-floor flat is just seconds from the cathedral, arguably the most beautiful in England, and certainly a spellbinding setting for choral Evensong and midnight Mass. Sleeping six, it costs £955 for the week starting December 22, with Hideaways (01747 828170, hideaways.co.uk).
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