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The three brick oast houses beside the A20 at Harrietsham looked like a trio of square-built Kentish women going a-marketing in russet-coloured cloaks. Each was capped by a hood like a nun’s coif, a slender white cone upheld against the windy autumn sky. It was a leafy path from the railway station up to the North Downs, an avenue of golden field maple and thorn trees heavy with crimson haws.

Winter wheat was beginning to spring in the pale grey clay fields, while the breast of the Downs billowed like sheets on a washing line. I didn’t turn around until I was 200ft above the plain, lord of a prospect of fine houses among red and gold trees, and long misty miles towards the Kentish Weald.

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Near Ringlestone I passed through a field of ewes. Every woolly rump had been smeared with colour. The three rams responsible, Mr Blue, Mr Green and Mr Red, limped after the flock, wearied by their duties. A passing hot-air balloon caused the ewes to flee in a panic, but the three rams couldn’t even raise a shamble.

The owner of a little cottage leant contentedly on the fence. A fine afternoon for walking! Nice quiet spot, this. How old’s the house? Oh, about 500. A little creaky, but a wonderful place to live. Beyond the cottage, spiky sweet chestnut pods had fallen across the footpath. I popped a glossy nut into my mouth. Like munching blotting paper steeped in sal volatile. I spat it out. Lesson learnt.

There were deneholes in the dry valleys — pits dug in medieval times to win the alkaline chalk that sweetened the acid clay. I walked south by timeless trackways with thick hedges and wide verges. The ancient Pilgrims’ Way carried me for a stretch; then I walked through open fields, down past Goddington Oast and into Harrietsham, with the low autumn sun lighting the long roll of the Downs.

Start & finish Harrietsham station, Harrietsham, Kent ME17 (OS ref TQ 866529).

Getting there Rail (thetrainline.com ; railcard.co.uk ) to Harrietsham. Road: M20 to Jct 8, A20 to Harrietsham.

Walk (8 miles, easy grade, OS Explorer 148): Harrietsham station — cross farm road (870532) — cross North Downs Way/Pilgrims’ Way — road at Lower Deans Farm (872546) — road near Merlewood Farm (874552) — Ringlestone Inn (879558).

Road at Park Farm (880565) — road at Yewtree Farm, Wormshill (878569) — right, then left over stile; across fields, through shank of wood (871569); up slope by old quarry; left across field to Drake Lane (866568). Ringlestone Road (865558) — High Wood — left along Pilgrims’ Way for two thirds of a mile. Right (863542) to track (861538) — left, then right to Goddington. Under railway; left (860532) beside railway, then to gravel path (864529) — Harrietsham station.

Lunch Roebuck, Harrietsham (01622 858388); Ringlestone Inn (01622 859900, theringlestoneinn. co.uk); Blacksmiths Arms, Wormshill (01622 884386).

Accommodation Black Horse Inn, Thurnham, Kent ME14 3LD (01622 737185; wellieboot.net).

More information Maidstone TIC (01622 602169); enjoyengland.com

Online map, more walks christophersomerville.co.uk