Paul Sanders
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Winding through the lanes of the Gower in Wales I watch as the bars on my car phone slowly disappear until the “no signal” sign flashes up.
At that point I turn left into the entrance to Three Cliffs Bay campsite. For me, come rain or shine, this is the best place in the world to just stop, put life on pause, and gently unwind.
After checking in I edge my car through the narrow lane that leads to the two fields that make up this heavenly retreat. Margaret, the camp caretaker, greets me with a huge smile in her distinctive way: Fabulous to see you again, I saved you a spot in your favourite place.”
I’m guided to the edge of the cliff, where the full beauty of Three Cliffs unravels before me, the whole expanse of the bay, the river running to the sea, the sand dunes all bathed in sunshine. My mind starts to slow down as I unpack the tent.
The tangle of poles and ropes seems like a puzzle at first, but is quickly solved, and soon all those deadlines and meetings have been forgotten and life takes on a new perspective.
Margaret runs a tight ship: she likes order, good manners and a cheeky joke. The facilities are basic but excellent and no two tents are pitched next to each other.
Cars parked between each one make for a sense of privacy. She knows the regular campers by name and is a bit like your favourite aunt — always there to advise but never in your way.
I usually come here to shoot landscapes, big moody views of the Welsh coast, but sometimes I don’t even get the camera out of the car — such is the beauty of Three Cliffs Bay.
Once my tent is properly up I can sit for hours, looking over the bay, drinking tea or flying my kite on the beach, followed by a swim.
The beach is great for families, too, although the walk down can be steep in places. The end of the afternoon sees dads laden like pack horses wearily battling up the cliff path as their children race on ahead after a day splashing in the surf and eating sandwiches that have a healthy helping of sand in every filling.
Part of the joy of camping is that it brings out the hunter-gatherer — even if that is only hunting down the nearest farm shop, which is on site for basics, or the local supermarket.
Somehow food tastes better when cooked over the tiny stove shielded from the wind, even the early morning cuppa is more refreshing because you can’t take anything for granted. Everything feels like a just reward for the effort you have put in.
There’s romance amid all the hard work too — as the suns sets and stellar displays decorate the sky. But I remain hypnotised even if the clouds do blow in and the air fills with the sound of canvas zipping. In my tent, I pull my sleeping bag over me and listen to rain drumming softly on the canvas.
It’s a hypnotic sound and immediately brings back the excitement of nights in my parents’ garden, where camps were made from sheets and sticks and the first sign of rain meant two soggy boys racing into the house for dry clothes.
Here time does stand still, at least for a short while, life gets broken down to its most simple form, you can totally forget the outside world, recharge, unwind and declutter your thoughts.
Three top tips
1 Always find a flat pitch 2 Never camp too close to the toilets, but never too far away, either 3 Never camp under a tree Must-have My 3m kite — the best way to be totally absorbed and removed from reality
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