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Shortboard Any board shorter than 7ft 6in but usually around 6ft to 6ft 6in. Usually ridden by proficient surfers, shortboards demand athleticism and extreme agility.
Mini-mal A board hovering between 7ft 6in and 8ft 6in and designed with lots of “float”, making it easy to use for beginners.
Malibu, or longboards more than 9ft long, are named after the legendary Californian surf spot. Many “soul surfers” ride longboards on which they can “Hang Ten” (ride the nose of the board, with ten toes over the nose) or “Hang Five” (five toes over the nose) and walk the board (cross-stepping along the deck as they surf). Longboarding is often seen as a stylish and graceful form of surfing.
Beach break This is where waves break over a sandy bottom. Devon and Cornwall are dominated by beach breaks.
Point break Both a testosterone-filled Keanu Reeves film and the name given to a surf break where waves peel off an exposed rocky point. In doing so, the shape of the wave is usually more consistent and predictable than beach break surf. Britain is not known for its point breaks but California, by contrast, is point break central.
Reef break Where waves break over a shallow underlying reef. Porthleven, in Cornwall, is a reef break — and probably one of the best waves in Europe.
Kook Not so much a beginner but an inveterate clown, given to things such as dropping in.
Dropping in Surfing etiquette provides that the surfer nearest the curl of the breaking wave has right of way. If you take off in front of him, you’ve dropped in. On Californian beaches this can lead to severe punishment, but UK surfers are generally more forgiving.
Right-hander A wave breaking to the right, as the surfer looks at the beach.
Left-hander A wave breaking to the left.
Glassy Clean, perfect swell when the sea is smooth.
Line-up The place where surfers wait for waves to break. Once there, they line themselves up with a position on the shore.
Zoo A crowded line-up.
Stoked Extremely pleased and satisfied with the condition of the surf and/or your surf session.
Sex Wax Most famous brand of surfboard wax, necessary to give grip.
Sick A really good move, eg, a radical aerial move.
Filthy Something even better than sick, eg, a stand up barrel (to ride the wave standing fully upright inside the curling tube or barrel).
Natural footer Surfer who surfs with left foot forward.
Goofy footer Surfer who surfs with right foot forward.
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