USP The only five-star hotel with a spa just outside the main gates of Valletta, an attractive ancient city packed with history that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

AMBIENCE This is a vast 439-room hotel that is used for business conferences as well as by tourist groups and individuals. It was opened in 2007 but feels rather dated. The design is an eclectic mix of marble floors and chandeliers, replicas of classical sculptures, plastic potted plants, swirly carpets and flowery sofas. It’s saved in part by the expansive views over Marsamxett Harbour from some of the rooms and from the public bars and restaurants.

Le Grand Spa is on the ground floor, fronted by a large wooden reception desk, with a simple décor of beige walls and tiled floors. There are nine treatment rooms, with cream and terracotta walls, though they felt slightly small and cluttered. Four have two beds for couples, and one has five beds for friends who want to have treatments together.

The sole relaxation room has wicker sofas and chairs, Art Deco lamps and another incongruous replica of a classical sculpture – it’s comfortable enough, but not a place where you feel you want to linger. Candles lit in the room and along the corridors gave the place a mellow, relaxing feel, but they weren’t enough to make it feel 5-star special, and the effect was somewhat spoilt when the overhead lights were snapped on by our therapist so that we could complete our health questionnaire.

There’s an extremely large menu of facials, beauty treatments and massages on offer, including holistic treatments such as Indian head, reflexology, hopi ear candles and Hawaiian massage. You’ll also have access to a small sauna, a steam room (closed during out stay) and a circular (chlorinated) indoor pool with a whirlpool. The pool area felt dominated by the huge glass-walled gym, however, and had the feel of a leisure centre rather than a relaxing spa. You’re better off outside, where there’s a giant (if chlorinated) outdoor swimming pool with children’s pool and sun-trap terraces, and a little man-made beach with a protected swimming area.

QUALITY OF EXPERIENCE The Maltese therapists were charming and helpful. I had a perfectly decent Swedish massage with almond oil, and my husband enjoyed a full-body massage with candle oil, even though the oil smelt a bit too potent to be anywhere near organic. Our couples room didn’t feel big enough to be one – halfway through our treatments my therapist had to move my bed so she could walk around me.

The indoor pool wasn’t any good for lengths, though it was kind of fun swimming in circles for a while. The outdoor pool was quite lovely, though too cold for our October visit. Large hotels aren’t my thing, and this one certainly wasn’t. We enjoyed Valletta, however – especially the Lower Barracca Gardens, which have lovely semi-circular benches to sit on to chat or read.

FOOD AND DRINK In the spa relaxation room guests have access to apples and Nestlé breakfast bars and, curiously, bowls of boiled sweets. There’s also freshly squeezed orange juice, water and fairtrade tea – though these were served in polystyrene cups. During our stay, the breakfast and dinner buffet at The Admiral’s Landing restaurant was extremely mediocre.

IN-CROWD English and German tourists, especially families. Tourist groups. Business travellers attending conferences at the hotel.

WALLET WATCH From €130 per night bed and breakfast based on two sharing. It’s worth paying a further €35 for a front seaview room. A one-hour Swedish therapeutic massage costs €85; Vitamin C anti-oxidant facial €95 (1 hour); candle oil full body massage €95 (1 hour); and 45 minutes of reflexology costs €50.

NEED TO KNOW Grand Hotel Excelsior, Great Siege Road, Floriana (+356 2125 0520, www.excelsior.com.mt).

Air Malta (www.airmalta.com) runs double daily flights to Malta from London Heathrow and London Gatwick, a daily service from Manchester and two flights a week from Birmingham International. Return economy fares cost from £99 return.

For more information on Malta, see www.visitmalta.com.

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