As a Francophile, it pains me to admit that, when it comes to Christmas, the Germans have it down pat. But before you think I’m telling you to hurry off to Berlin, Munich or Nuremburg for their Christmas markets, let me just say one little word – Alsace.

It’s fair to say the region has more than its fair share of Germanic influence, but even away from the tourist hotspots of Strasbourg and Colmar, the smaller Christmas markets boast a certain French flair that you won’t find anywhere else.

Take Kaysersberg, for example. This little village, which sits beneath its own dinky castle, certainly dons its glad-rags during the Christmas season. It’s also a favourite of food writer Sue Style who lives nearby.

“It’s small, and thoroughly classy: all the houses are done in exquisite taste – no tat or tinsel, but big satin bows on the window boxes, beautiful lighting. There are nice stands selling candles, Christmas tree decorations and lots of wooden toys,” she says.

“A fun place to eat is Flammes & Co opposite (and belonging to) the Hotel-Restaurant Chambard, where they do all kinds of fun variations on the tartes flambée theme.”

A personal favourite is the market at Riquewihr. This gorgeous little walled town just oozes Christmas spirit and, as I wandered around it at sunset a few years ago, a cold mist came swirling through the stalls and had us running for the nearest vin chaud stall to warm up.

The Christmas ornament shop Féerie de Noël (sssh, it’s part of a German chain - Käthe Wohlfahrt) is a must for anyone short of a Christmas decoration or two and will easily chase away any Scrooge-like tendancies.

A short drive from Riquewihr is Bergheim, where our writer Kate Chappell discovered that, instead of celebrating Noël with a market, “the village exhibits Nativity scenes in every conceivable nook and cranny,” she says.

“There are about 50 of them on a trail that winds its way through the maze of streets. We found Nativities in all shapes and sizes and made from every material under the sun. There are Nativities made from wood and tiny Nativities hidden in house windows.”

Another original way of celebrating is found in the village of Turckheim. There’s a huge advent calendar built down one side of the main square. At 5pm, a bell rings and a group of small children weave their way from the medieval town hall through the crowd to the calendar, where two children are chosen to open the window for that day. “It’s a rite of passage for the local children, who all take part over the course of Advent” says Kate, who was there to witness it last year.

Further south in the town of Mulhouse, the Christmas market fills the central square Place de la Reunion and lines of little wooden chalets sell a lovely array of artisanal goods and gastronomic treats. The rather garish Hôtel de Ville takes on an altogether classier look as it glows warmly in the dark. It looks over to the huge protestant church Temple Saint-Étienne that sits on the opposite side of the square.

The town is famous for its fabrics, so head along to the Musée de l’Impression sur Etoffes for their own Christmas market, which Sue Style says is: ‘A great place for Christmas presents.”

The Christmas market tradition has also spread further than eastern France, and users of our forum suggest those in Aix-en-Provence and Avignon as good fairs to visit, especially as Provence has its own wonderful winter traditions (as described in our December issue’s cover story). But, when asked to name their favourites… where do you think they suggest? Germany of course. Well, you can’t win them all.

Carolyn Boyd is editor of France Magazine, Britain and North America’s best-selling magazine about French travel and culture. Go to www.subscription.co.uk/france get three issues for £3 or buy a single copy (£3.99). Follow France Magazine on Twitter, or join France Mag on Facebook.

Times recommends

• 'New York has lost its edge'
• The UK and Ireland's 25 best Christmas events
• Chalet Chef 2010: the winners