Chris Haslam
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Has Chris missed something you feel worthy of inclusion? Or do you have any foodie tips for the rest of his trip around the British coastline? Leave your comments below
WEEK SIX: Salcombe to Whitstable
Wheelers oyster bar, in Whitstable (01227 273311), was closed when I arrived, but the proprietress, Delia Fitt, took pity, fetching me oysters, half a lemon and a shucking knife. That’s how they’ve served them here for the past 152 years. The first time you visit, try half a dozen natives as they come, for £9. The second time, which should be, say, an hour later, try six more in Guinness batter, for £7. Then stop.
WEEK FIVE: Weston-super-Mare to Salcombe
You deserve a pint just for finding the Pigs Nose Inn,in East Prawle, a perfect little pub, the most southerly in Devon and tucked away in the depths of the South Hams. The 500-year-old hostelry is decorated like a cross between a smuggler’s haunt and a teenage girl’s bedroom. There are even fur coats hanging in the porch, for smokers. The pub has a cracking pint of Eddystone on draught and a great crab salad for £11.
WEEK FOUR: Llandudno to the Gower
It was gone nine on a Sunday night and we were starving. Happening on the Golden Lion (01239 820321, www.goldenlionpembs.co.uk), in Newport, we burst through its door to beg for sustenance. They were supposed to stop serving at nine, but the barmaid just smiled. There was just one locally caught lobster left, and homemade apple and raspberry crumble for pudding. Sometimes the gods smile...
WEEK THREE: John O'Groats to Southport
Waitress Shauna MacKenzie’s dad used to canoodle in here, but back then the fabulous Seafood Temple (01631 566000) was a public lavatory on Oban’s Gallanach Road. Now it’s a tiny 20-cover restaurant run by a local fisherman, John Ogden, and known locally as “Oggie’s Bog”. The menu is based on the day’s catch, including salty Loch Crearan oysters (£4.95 for six) and langoustine tails (£5.95).
WEEK TWO: Skegness to John O'Groats
Craster
You can’t drive into Craster. Use the car park at the top of the village and walk to the harbour, then follow your nose uphill to the Craster Seafood Restaurant (01665 576223), in the yard of the L Robson & Sons smokehouse. You don’t need a menu.
You want kippers with bread and butter, and a pot of tea – and you’ll get a steaming stack of plump, fleshy smoked herring, as far from the grilled boot leather you’re probably used to as Sunny D is from freshly squeezed juice. Redolent of bonfires, with a hint of citrus and a whiff of juniper, this banquet will cost you just £6.90.
WEEK ONE: Southend to Skegness
Mersea Island
First, fetch a bottle of bone-dry Mehalah from the Mersea Island Vineyard (01206 385900, www.merseawine.com). Then buy bread from the Old Mill Bakery in West Mersea before following Coast Road around to the Company Shed (01206 382700), a dilapidated quayside shack that’s not to be judged on appearance: Rick Stein reckons this is one of Britain’s top seafood restaurants.
No reservations, no corkage, Mersea oysters 60p a go, and a startlingly good seafood platter – as recommended by readers Russ and Angie Tilley – for just £8.50.
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