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3 BEST FOR OLDER CHILDREN
North Somerset Many of our best-loved lowland swimming holes are above old stone weirs built hundreds of years ago for fishing or mills. While modern concrete working weirs on big rivers are a no-go, these older structures create large pools and make swimming possible on rivers that might not otherwise be deep enough – generations of children learnt to swim in pools like these. Claverton Weir, near Bath, is my favourite, forming a low, meandering waterfall across the Avon and a great lagoon-like lake above it, dappled with balsam and willows. More than 100yd long, it was built in 1810 to lift water from the river to the nearby Kennet and Avon Canal. On a hot summer day, the air is filled with ozone from the cascading water. Older children play along the top, diving into the pool or climbing down the waterfall wall. Younger kids can stick to the shallow beach or the wide meadow that adjoins.
Follow the A36 out of Bath and park in Claverton village. Walk down Ferry Lane, cross the railway to a field and find the weir on the right.
Grid ref: ST 792643; postcode: BA2 7BH
4 BEST FOR A LONG DIP
South Dorset The Dorset Stour is one of England’s iconic rural rivers. It was here that Thomas Hardy and his wife, Emma, spent their happiest years walking, writing and swimming through rolling countryside. Upstream from Pamphill the river opens up in wonderful, wide meanders. Last summer, I floated downstream for miles on a sun-dappled current. Mayflies danced around and fronds of water buttercup tickled my toes. I lay on my back, staring at the sky, and I was as happy as a frog on his lily pad.
Follow the path upstream from the small car park outside Pamphill village, near Wimborne Minster.
Grid ref: ST 996001; postcode: BH21 4EE
5 BEST FOR LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS
Cambridge Take tea in Grantchester or eat strawberries from your punt and enjoy a stretch of river that has changed little since Edwardian times. It was here that Rupert Brooke, Virginia Woolf and a legion of other brilliant minds gathered to camp, picnic and swim naked. On a hot summer day, the languid mile-long stretch of river is still dotted with leisurely Pimm’s parties. Punts and canoes glide by, some heading downstream towards Cambridge’s famous Backs, others upstream to the Orchard tea gardens. At intervals you hear another splash as someone decides to cool off. Paradise Pool is a narrow wooded area on the edge of town at the top end of the meadows, with a curly tree ideal for diving, but anywhere along this stretch is good for swimming, particularly on the outside of the bends where the river deepens to more than 6ft. Be warned, though: while the river is clear, clean and warm, the banks and bed are squelchy.
From Cambridge station it’s a 20-minute walk across town to the top end of the meadows, or drive to Grantchester village (www.orchard-grantchester.com).
Grid ref: TL 440568; postcode: CB3 9JJ
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