It is funny to think that fish have a season; I used to think that seasonality applied only to vegetables. I still think that it is a difficult concept to grasp unless you make a living from the sea but I learn a little every year, which is one of the pleasures of food. My father once became desperately ill after eating an oyster and this was when I first heard the old maxim about never eating shellfish when there is an “R” in the month — another sort of seasonality.

Anyway, mackerel is in season now and there is something about this fish that appeals to me enormously. I like the fact that it is not chi-chi (in fact it is remarkably inexpensive); that it is sustainably fished off our shores and thus supports our fishermen; that it is full of omega oils that will do my grey matter some good; and, most of all, that it is one of the most delicious fish you can get, provided that you get it absolutely fresh.

Mackerel’s one disadvantage is that its complex, delicious flavour can quickly turn muddy. So look for glistening eyes and a shiny back or go to a reliable fishmonger who you know serves only the freshest fish. Then you can start to cook. Mackerel’s oily flesh takes on flavours well, so I love to slash the skin and marinate the fish in highly spiced Indian curry pastes: perfect for exotic barbecues. The same can be said of hot Mexican chilli pastes, so experiment should you have any chipotle chillies lurking in your cupboard.

Mackerel can be cooked whole in a hot oven in about five minutes or the fillets fried in a pan for roughly four minutes. They go very well with buttered new potatoes and salsa verde.

Seasonal food recipe finder: September

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• Barbecued mackerel with beetroot salad

If they are ultra fresh then they are also one of the best fish to eat as sushi or in ceviches as their firm flesh cuts so well. Equally, the oiliness is balanced beautifully by the fierce heat of chillies and horseradish. Ask your greengrocer to get hold of some fresh horseradish for you; you can grate the whole lot and store it in the freezer for a rainy day. Alternatively, settle for a bought jar mixed with plenty of crème fraîche.

Barbecued mackerel with beetroot salad

The combination of fresh mackerel, a warm beetroot salad and home-made horseradish cream hits all the right spots for me. I love this with a green bean and cos salad or just a simple watercress salad dressed with a tart vinaigrette.

Ingredients

5 large beetroot, scrubbed clean

1 bunch of dill

Extra virgin olive oil

Balsamic vinegar

1 bunch of chives

1-2 tsp of finely grated horseradish

4 large tbsp of crème fraîche

1-2 tbsp of red wine vinegar

4 small mackerel, gutted and cleaned

1 lemon

Sea salt and black pepper

Method

1 Make sure that you light your barbecue in advance so that you have time to burn down the coals and cook over heat, not flame. If you are using a griddle pan make sure that it is smoking hot.

2 Place the beetroot in a pan of cold water with a large pinch of salt and a sprig or two of dill. Simmer until tender, roughly 30 min depending on their size. Cool slightly, peel and cut each one into quarters. Dress the beetroot with a splash of olive oil and a splash of balsamic vinegar, season with salt and pepper and a small handful each of chopped chives and dill. Leave to marinate.

3 For the horseradish cream, mix the crème fraîche, grated horseradish and red wine vinegar and season.

4 Using a sharp knife, score the skin of the fish to a depth of 50mm all the way along its body and on both sides. Rub the fish with olive oil and season all over, inside and out. Put 2-3 sprigs of dill and chives inside the cavity of each fish. Lay the fish on the hot grill of the barbecue or on the griddle pan and cook for 3 min on each side without moving. The flesh should come away from the bone very easily. If it doesn’t, cook a minute longer.

5 Arrange the fish on warm plates, spoon over the horseradish cream and serve with the beetroot salad.

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