Serves 2

- 2 fresh young grouse

- 25g softened butter

- Flaked sea salt and ground black pepper

- 1 bunch of watercress, washed

- 150ml red wine or madeira

- 1 tsp redcurrant jelly

- 1 handful of fresh raspberries

- 2-3 handfuls of unsalted crisps

Heat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas Mark 6. Prepare the grouse by rubbing a good teaspoon of soft butter on each breast. Season with plenty of salt and pepper. Put both birds in a small roasting tin and place in the centre of the oven for 18-23 minutes: 18 minutes for young birds and 23 minutes for larger ones. The legs should be just cooked (please don’t be alarmed by their faint bloodiness — this is how they should be eaten) and the birds perfectly pink at the breastbone.

Remove from the oven and tip any juices from the body cavity of each bird back into the tin before transferring the grouse to a warmed serving platter. Push a good amount of watercress into the cavity of each bird, saving some for the garnish.

Put the roasting tin over a medium heat on the stove and add the wine or madeira. Bring to a vigorous boil, scraping to lift the sediment from the bottom of the pan, and reduce the liquid by a third. Check the seasoning. Melt in the redcurrant jelly.

Spoon the juices over the grouse. Scatter a few raspberries, garnish with the remaining watercress and add a couple of handfuls of good-quality unsalted crisps that you will rename “game chips”.

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