Serves 4

- 1 organic lemon, finely grated and juiced

- 115g granulated sugar

- 6 large sprigs of tarragon

- 2 tbsp kirsch (optional)

- 400g strawberries

- 250g cherries (or one nectarine)

- 170g raspberries

Place the lemon zest in a noncorrosive pan with the sugar, tarragon and 150ml water. Dissolve the sugar and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the lemon juice and kirsch. Put to one side.

Hull and slice the strawberries. Place in a large bowl. Then stem, halve and stone the cherries, holding them over the bowl to catch the juice. Alternatively finely slice a nectarine. Add the raspberries. Strain over the warm (not hot) syrup. Serve with clotted cream.

...And what to drink

This remarkable dish calls for a wine well outside the mainstream. Coteaux du Loir, L’Effraie, Domaine de Bellivière 2006 is made by Eric Nicolas. Using organic methods and manic intensity, he has created a semi-sweet wine with lashings of marzipan and quince (£16, The Wine Society; 01438 737700). Bob Tyrer

Citrus and Spice: A Year of Flavour by Sybil Kapoor (Simon & Schuster £20). Buy it for £18, inc p&p, through the Sunday Times BooksFirst on 0845 271 2135 or at timesonline.co.uk/booksfirst

Read The Sunday Times Style e-paper - exactly as it appears in print

Times Recommends

• Top Ten most searched for recipes
• Chalet Chef 2010: the winning menus
• Gin and pomegranate jellies