Time was when the high streets of England would turn a gloriously vivid red, almost overnight, as soon as the local strawberry season hit. It was all or nothing in those days, and everyone gorged themselves on the soft, sweet, juicy fruit while they could, knowing that such blissful indulgence would last only a few weeks and then be gone again for another year.

Without wishing to perpetuate the myth that “things were better back then”, we do seem to have lost the romance and specialness associated with the British strawberry season. Due to advanced varieties and agricultural practices — growing strawberries in tunnels of polythene — the season has been extended before and after the traditional six weeks, and the firmer, more commercially successful Elsanta strawberry has gained dominance over the older, softer varieties.

The best strawberries are still those you grow yourself, closely followed by those you pick yourself, followed by freshly picked berries at farm shops and farmers’ markets. Contact London Farmers’ Markets (www.lfm.org.uk ), National Farmers’ Markets (www.farmersmarkets.net or find your nearest farmshop (www.farmshopping.com) or PYO (www.pick-your-own.org.uk where you are more likely to find some of the older strawberry varieties.

This is the first of my month-long summer food series. This week’s recipes celebrate the great English strawberry. Next week: summer cheeses, then picnics, then barbecues.

Ingredients

Prep: 20 min
Cook: 20 min

Serve icy-cold strawberry milkshakes with warm berry muffins as a pud, a picnic, or a pretty brunch/lunch.

Serves 4; makes 10 muffins

75g butter, melted and cooled
200ml milk
2 eggs, beaten
250g self-raising flour
1 tsp baking powder
2 tbsp desiccated coconut
150g caster sugar
150g strawberries, chopped

Milkshake:
200g strawberries
200ml cold milk
200g vanilla ice-cream
2 tbsp honey

METHOD: Heat the oven to 200C/Gas 6. Set ten paper muffin cases in a large-hole muffin tray. Beat the butter, milk and eggs until light. Sift the flour and baking powder into a large bowl, add the sugar and coconut and mix well.

Add the liquid mixture to the flour mixture along with the berries, mixing lightly with a fork until clumpy — don’t overmix. Fill each paper case three-quarters full and bake for 20 minutes or until the tops spring back to the touch. Whiz the milkshake ingredients in a blender until frothy, and serve in small chilled glasses with the still-warm muffins.

Diary date: Jill Dupleix will be hosting tastings of new-season strawberries and giving summer entertaining tips at Fortnum & Mason in Piccadilly, Central London, on Friday from noon to 1pm.

Order good cooking

You can order Good Cooking by Jill Dupleix (Quadrille) from Times Books First for £13.99 (RRP £18.99) + p&p. Call 0870 1608080 or visit www.timesonline.co.uk/booksfirst

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