Everybody’s whingeing about the weather. Yes, the Met Office teased us in May with the prospect of getting the barbie out night after steamy night; we all opted for a British holiday this year (not that the overseas exchange rate had anything to do with that) and worked extra hard to get bikini-ready (well, some of us did).

And now this. Rain, a little sun, more rain, a little more rain, a bit more sun, rain. I’ve heard cries to sue the Met Office for trashing the overseas travel market. The Met Office itself has admitted that the “barbecue summer is off”. Well, the British tourist industry is not the only benefactor of this meteorological miscalculation. This summer has been an urban farmer’s wet dream.

In a few weeks, when blight destroys my potatoes and tomatoes, and botrytis, mildew and slugs have devoured everything in sight, I might eat my words. But so far, the conditions have been perfect for delivering my best harvest ever.

This last week of July is always the apogee, when everything on the allotment is screaming with abundance – this year it’s off the scales. I’d like to think that my increasing green-fingered-ness may play a part, too, but frankly I’ve been rather neglectful of the plot recently due to work obligations. Nonetheless, I’ve hauled in the cornucopial harvest most nights and scoured my imagination and my cookery library for recipes to use up kilos and kilos of summer squashes, cucumbers, summer cabbages, lettuces and runner beans.

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As usual, I grew way too many scarlet runner beans this year, and it’s difficult to keep up with the picking before some become inedible. I performed an experiment at home to determine the exact point at which they become too tough and stringy (Pedantic, moi?).

I steamed about ten beans graduating in size from 4 inches (10cm) to a foot long (30cm). If my results are anything to go by (different types may vary), 6 to 8 inches (15 – 20cm) is the max, but the best way to determine it is this: when the seeds inside the pod are visible, about the diameter of a small pea and they go “pop” when you squeeze them through the pod, they’re past it. Then the pods have to be de-stringed by cutting the sides off with a sharp knife, which will have you vowing never to grow runner beans again in no time.

But before you chuck them in the compost bin… don’t despair. Even the massive ones can be roughly sliced and made into a lovely soup (see below). By the way, the blossoms of runner bean plants are some of the best edible flowers going – they’re a great way to add some colour to salads right now before tomato time arrives, which is imminent.

Now, you armchair farmers out there might already be signed up for an organic box scheme, and that’s great. But here’s an innovative idea, sadly only currently available for those in and around Hertfordshire, but let’s hope it catches on. MASHPAC is a company founded and run by the Mash family, fifth generation farmers, delivering boxes of locally grown produce direct from vetted farms in Herts. You can choose your box contents, delivery is free and it’s all at supermarket prices. Plus you reduce your carbon footprint and eat seasonally – what’s not to love?

www.celiabrooksbrown.com follow me on twitter www.twitter.com/celiabb

TIP OF THE WEEK: Snip off any parts of the runner bean tendrils which are extending beyond the top of the poles to encourage bushier growth.

Seasonal Recipe: Soup of Past-it Runner Beans

25g butter

2 medium onions, chopped

3 cloves garlic, chopped

1 litre vegetable stock

1 kg overgrown runner beans, cut in smallish segments

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Summer herbs such as basil and marjoram, to taste

Lemon juice, crème fraiche

Or grated mature cheddar and croutons

Melt the butter in a large pan. Fry the onions until translucent, then add the garlic and fry until fragrant. Add the stock and bring to the boil. Simmer for 5 minutes, then add the runner beans, return to the boil and simmer for about 20 minutes, until the beans are completely tender. Season and stir in some fresh herbs, if desired. Cool briefly, then puree. Pass through a sieve. Season with lemon juice, and black pepper and serve with a dollop of crème fraiche, or grated cheddar and croutons on top. Serves 4-6

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