Celia Brooks Brown
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It’s a soggy old morning out there, and I’m rejoicing, as are all my veggie plants, and no doubt an army of snails and slugs on the attack. The cracked earth on the lottie has resembled Death Valley in between dedicated watering sessions of late. Finally a little weather system is letting me off the hook and it’s a temporary relief.
We enjoyed our first proper feast of baby spring vegetables this weekend, including early broad beans and some golf-ball sized globe artichokes – so tender we ate them whole – and a clutch of marble-sized new potatoes. The spuds were not from my new crop, but from some rogue plants (undug potatoes from last year which re-grew) which I had to clear away to make room for planting out my broccoli seedlings.
In the same patch, I also reluctantly had to murder my chest-high perpetual spinach, which has done me proud since summer 2008, providing greens throughout the winter months. Alas - rotation, rotation.
Everything is visibly cranking up a gear, which is so exciting. Conditions are getting a little heavy in the greenhouse with a recorded temperature of 45C yesterday, so regular ventilation is a must. This is our first year with a proper greenhouse (albeit a homemade one; see New Urban Farmer), so we are still finding our way. If you dream of a greenhouse but don’t have the space or money, consider this: have you got a car? Somebody who parks in my neighbourhood has turned their Volvo estate into a greenhouse. It moves around a lot so obviously gets used as a car, too! Though I can’t say how “green” such a greenhouse actually is, it’s clearly functional.
Rhubarb continues to feature on the menu, and although it’s approaching its green and stringy stage, the flavour is still wonderful and it should keep on going until late June. But let’s face it, there are only so many cakes and tarts and fools one can feasibly eat.
A botanical relative of sorrel, gastronomically rhubarb tends to fall into the fruit category and is almost always used in sugary desserts to counter its acidity. But it made a cleverly disguised appearance on my table recently in the form of a Rhubarb and Lentil Curry. This came about as a result of a suggestion from food blogger Lizzie Eats London or @hollowlegs who suggested to me via Twitter a recipe for rhubarb and mince that her dad makes. See her description of the recipe on the wonderfully fun site The Great Big Vegetable Challenge (here Lizzie uses yet another pseudonym, “Schmoof”.) For my rhubarb curry recipe, you’ll have to wait for New Urban Farmer the book, coming out March 2010.
www.celiabrooksbrown.com follow me on twitter www.twitter.com/celiabb
TIP OF THE WEEK: If you grow globe artichokes, I’m sure you’ll be delighted to find them appearing on the huge feathery plants right now. Don’t hesitate to harvest the babies – this will encourage more to form. Aphids love artichokes, so keep on top of them, weakening them by spraying with soapy water and then blasting them off later with a strong stream of hose water.
Seasonal Recipe: Saffron artichokes
Last week I was invited to Zurich to experience Swiss International Air Lines’ imminent collaboration with the oldest vegetarian restaurant in Europe, Hiltl (est. 1898). Located in the heart of Zurich, Hiltl (also a club, bar and cookery school) is a well-known brand in Switzerland, recognised by the fun and dynamism of the place and the food, rather than for the fact that it’s vegetarian. From May 27, all in-flight vegetarian meals on Swiss will be prepared from Hiltl recipes, changing every three months with the seasons. This recipe is adapted from Hiltl’s inspiring cookbook, Virtuoso Vegetarian, available online. Artichokes and saffron both feature in this season’s in-flight meals.
50ml olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
4 small carrots, finely sliced
1 clove garlic, crushed
800g cooked baby artichokes, artichoke hearts or bases (fresh, tinned or from a jar), halved
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
A pinch of ground saffron or saffron threads, plus more to garnish
1 tbsp cider vinegar
200ml water
1 tsp cornflour mixed with 2 tsp cold water
Heat the olive oil and saute the onion and carrots until soft. Add the garlic, artichokes, salt, pepper, saffron, vinegar and water and bring to the boil. Lower the heat and simmer for a few minutes, until the liquid reduces slightly. Add the cornflour mixture and simmer until thickened. Garnish with a few saffron threads. Serves 4
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