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In an effort to eat more seafood, it’s easy to keep returning to the familiarity of cod and other popular types of white fish. But to do so is to miss out on some of the many less high-profile species – the unsung heroes of the fish counter – that are readily available and that make for great eating.

Whiting is one of them. Poached and served with parsley sauce and a creamy mash, it’s a traditional British dish that fell out of fashion a while ago, but that very much deserves to be revisited. The same is true of mackerel, which is great simply grilled and served with a red onion, parsley and caper salad, dressed with lime juice and seasoned with black pepper, or the humble sprat, floured (together with a touch of paprika and salt) then fried. Gurnard is no great looker, but its flesh is deliciously firm, and tastes wonderful with Moroccan spices. Make some slashes in the flesh, then mix together some ground cumin, ground coriander, chopped fresh coriander and mint, plus some crushed garlic, paprika, lemon juice, olive and salt. Rub it into the fish and allow to marinate for at least half an hour before grilling.

Herring, or ‘silver darlings’, as they’re affectionately known, are also woefully overlooked in this country. Their oily flesh eats incredibly well with a punchy Scandinavian-style mustard and dill sauce, or split and smoked – kippered, in other words - they make for a fantastic breakfast. Just grill them with a little butter and serve with a squeeze of lemon and some brown or wholemeal bread on the side.

Finding a good alternative to cod is an increasing preoccupation among many British fish lovers. Two very worthy candidates are Alaskan pollock and Atlantic pollack; both belong to the same family as cod, and have the same succulent, firm white flakes and a similar flavour. Either of them works well instead of cod or haddock in dishes such as fish pie, as does coley, with its firm but tender flesh.

Experimenting with different species is not just for the adventurous home cook; most fishmongers will be able to demystify unfamiliar or neglected varieties by advising on the best ways to prepare and serve them. Their knowledge is a greatly under-exploited high-street resource, and one they’re only too happy to share – now’s the time to make use of it.

Mitch Tonks is fishmonger, chef and founder of the FishWorks restaurant group

To find an excellent fishmonger near you visit the Real Food Directory

For more information on sustainability, fish recipes and species, and to buy The Young's Lexicon of Fish visit www.youngsfish.co.uk

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