Smoking was originally developed as a preserving method before the advent of refrigeration, but the wonderful effect that it has on flavour and texture means it’s still a popular way of preparing food, including fish. The key to guaranteeing a good result is high-quality fish – the rest is down to the individual smoker’s art.

Smoked fish comes in three forms: fully cured cold-smoked fish; partially cured cold-smoked fish; and partially cured hot-smoked fish.

The first variety includes halibut, sturgeon, tuna, swordfish and marlin, but the best-known fish prepared in this way is salmon. Before smoking, it’s packed in a salt cure (to which some brown sugar is traditionally added); this will draw moisture from the flesh, giving it a firmer texture. Afterwards it’s cold smoked, which means that the temperature is never high enough to cook the flesh. The duration of the smoking process is decided by the smoke master according to the flavour they want to create, as is the type of wood used. Oak, beech or alder are the usual suspects, but oak whisky-cask shavings, juniper, peat, heather, hickory or cherry wood can also be added to enhance the taste. Once smoked, it’s ready to eat.

The second type – partially cured cold-smoked fish – include kippers (gutted, split herring), bloaters (whole, ungutted herring), Finnan haddies and Glasgow pales (two Scottish varieties of haddock fillets), cold-smoked cod (fillets) and lightly smoked salmon portions. Prior to being smoked, the fish is either soaked in brine or given a light sprinkling of salt. After smoking, all of them must be cooked (whether by grilling, poaching, frying or adding to a pie).

Hot-smoked fish, the third variety, is first partially cured then smoked in a hot kiln, which simultaneously cooks it. Fish prepared in this way include mackerel (often available sprinkled with flavourings such as pepper); Arbroath smokies (gutted haddock – though, originally, whiting was also used); buckling (similar to a smokie, but made with herring); eel (either whole or in fillet form); trout (in fillets); and salmon (either in fillet, sliced, cubed or flaked form).

Whichever smoking method is used, the smoker’s aim is always to enhance the fish’s intrinsic character, never to overwhelm it.

To find an excellent fishmonger near you visit the Real Food Directory

For more information on sustainability, fish recipes and species, and to buy The Young's Lexicon of Fish visit www.youngsfish.co.uk

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