Once you have tried this recipe, I’m sure you will start making little changes to suit your own tastes. It is my adaptation of a recipe in Marcella Hazan’s brilliant book Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, and is far removed from the unpleasant versions of carbonara, full of cream and mushrooms, that we are used to.

It is also my children’s favourite quick dinner.

The sauce is made by mixing the eggs and parmesan with a little of the starch-thickened pasta water — a good tip generally for pasta sauces. Another great cooking hint is to use 10g of salt to cook 100g of pasta in 1 litre of water (or a ratio of 1:10:100, adjusted according to the amount of pasta you use). The salt in the water does more than just add taste: the sodium bonds strengthen the pasta, improving its texture. By the way, do not use pre-grated parmesan — it is awful.

Serves 6

SPAGHETTI CARBONARA

4 medium onions
3 cloves garlic
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
300g smoked streaky bacon, sliced across into 1cm strips
1-2 fresh green chillis (depending on taste), seeds and pith removed, and chopped
600g best-quality dried pasta (spaghetti is ideal)
4-5 medium egg yolks
100g fresh parmesan, grated
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley



Peel, halve and de-root the onion, and chop finely. Peel, chop and purée the garlic (sprinkle a little table salt over the roughly chopped garlic and, using the flat side of the chopping knife, drag it backwards over the garlic — watch your fingers — until you have a smooth purée).

Pour about 75ml of olive oil into a frying pan and add the onions and garlic. Cook on a low to medium heat for 15 minutes. While the onions are cooking, you may need to regulate the temperature; the onions should not be coloured after the cooking time. Add the bacon and chopped chilli to the onion and garlic and turn up the heat. Cook until the onions and bacon are just starting to colour at the edges.

Put on the pasta water: use 6 litres of water and 60g of salt. When it comes to the boil, add the pasta, stirring gently to ensure that it does not stick. Cook according to the packet instructions, until the pasta is al dente.

Meanwhile, put the egg yolks into a bowl large enough to hold all the pasta. Add the grated parmesan and set aside. Chop the parsley leaves.

When the pasta is ready, drain through a colander — keeping back a bit of the water — and tip immediately onto the egg yolk- and parmesan mix, and ensuring that 1-2 tbsp of the cooking water goes with it. As you stir the pasta into the egg and cheese, the heat will cook the eggs and melt the cheese, making the sauce. Stir in the hot onion and bacon mix, sprinkle over the chopped parsley and serve.

I love to add peas to this dish; broccoli is also be a great extra. If you do use peas, it might be an idea to change the pasta, as the spaghetti won’t hold them.

Times Recommends

• Top Ten most searched for recipes
• Chalet Chef 2010: the winning menus
• Gin and pomegranate jellies