When is a fruit not a fruit? When it’s a fig. The fat purple or green teardrops are actually the flowers of the tree — or rather lots of flowers and seeds that grow together in a single mass. One to remember for the pub quiz. The trees fruit twice a year in the Med, but it’s in early autumn that they’re at their best. There are few scents more evocative than a fig tree in hot sun, although, sadly, Britain doesn’t generally have enough of the stuff to produce consistently ripe fruit, which means the figs you’ll find in the shops are grown abroad. You’ll just have to live with the food miles. A good fig is worth it.

What to do with them...

Figs are great with salty blue cheeses. Try slices of both on a bit of toast. Or, for pudding, make a cross-shape slit in the top and squeeze gently so they open up like a flower, then put a knob of butter in each one and bake at 180C/350F/Gas mark 4 for 5-10 minutes, basting halfway through. Meanwhile, gently heat 50g of good dark chocolate with 100ml of cream, stirring to make a sauce. Put each fig in a small bowl then pour over the chocolate sauce and top with vanilla ice cream.

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