Jamie Oliver
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Second of three part series
It’s quite difficult to visit America without having some preconceptions, whether from movies, the news or hearing people talk about it. My friends had raved about New Orleans for years, so I expected great things. But I still wasn’t prepared for either the colour and noise, or the incredibly potent mix of people and cultures a few hours outside the city, in Cajun country. It was an experience I shall never forget.
I kicked off my trip to Louisiana in New Orleans, a truly special place. The way the locals have picked themselves up after the devastation of the hurricanes is completely inspiring. The music, the art, the pace of life, the chaos, the architecture, the food — it’s as good as it gets. And there is a really positive atmosphere everywhere.
Outside New Orleans the landscape is really lush and charming. Leaving the city, I headed west in my pick-up truck along highway 10, towards the little town of Breaux Bridge, past the Louisiana state capital of Baton Rouge and over the Mississippi River. Almost the whole way (a two-hour drive), the highway was elevated on huge stone columns and, as far as I could see, there were watery swamps below. An incredible feat of engineering, especially as this area is full of alligators.
The people I met at Breaux Bridge and their surrounding area were so patriotic, not only about their country but about their underlying culture. The two main cultures here are Creole and Cajun. Creole food is a complete blend of influences: you’ve got Spanish, French and German cooking mixed with the herbs and ingredients of the Native Americans, as well as those of the West Indian and African slaves, who put their own special spin on things as they stirred the pots in those Louisiana kitchens.
The Cajuns were the French Acadians who settled around the bayous and swamps after they’d been kicked out of Canada by us Brits. Their cooking style was influenced by the fact that the men came down long before the women — so it was all about big, bold flavours and one-pot cooking. They made friends with the Native Americans, who showed them how to make use of wild game, seafood and anything else the bayou had to offer.
You’ll find dishes inspired by both of these cultures below, and I hope you give them a go. If you fancy visiting Louisiana, I’d absolutely recommend banging out three or four days in New Orleans, then hiring a car and taking yourself out to Cajun country for a week. The people are warm and friendly, the beer is great, the seafood rocks and the local game (yes, I’m talking alligator) is amazing.
Jamie’s America by Jamie Oliver, with photographs by David Loftus, is published on Thursday (Michael Joseph £26). You can buy it for £25 with free p&p in the UK. If you order Jamie’s America, you can also purchase Jamie’s Italy, getting both books for £30. Call 0843 060 0021 and quote reference JO/SundayTimes. Allow 7-10 working days for delivery
Jamie’s American Road Trip starts on Channel 4 on September 1 at 9pm
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