I know shamefully little about Chinese food, a fact brought graphically home to me while watching The Biggest Chinese Restaurant in the World on BBC4.

Like most Brits, my comfort zone begins and ends with takeaway Cantonese, and, though I could probably pick out a plate of beef ho fun in an identity parade, the food of Hunan, Fujian and Sichuan is a whole different language. I recently spotted some Shanghai wontons on the menu at Cha Cha Moon - Alan Yau’s new London noodle bar - and realised I wouldn’t know a Shanghai wonton if it shanghaied me on the way to the bus stop.

As China opens up, however, I reckon we’re going to be eating a lot more of its regional food, which is why the horizon-expanding Chinese section at this week’s Taste of London restaurant festival is good news.

Alongside food from British restaurants such as China Tang, Kai and Snazz Sichuan, there will be authentic Chinese chow from South Beauty, the top Beijing and Shanghai restaurant group. The menu sounds familiar enough, with the likes of steamed chicken with chilli and spicy ribs, but the proof will be in the eating.

South Beauty’s executive Sichuan chef, Ji Bangyao, says he wants to show that food in China is very different from the samey, oversweet dishes often served here. “The greatest feature of Chinese cuisine is the variety of sumptuous flavours,” he says. “Chinese food culture is so rich that almost every dish is a legend.”

Edible legends? Count me in.

Taste of London, Regent’s Park, NW1, June 19-22; 0871 230 5581

CORNISH CUTS

We don’t have a strong tradition of cured sausages in the UK, but the charcuterie from Deli Farm, near Tintagel, Cornwall, is a match for anything from the Continent. The range includes wonderful rustic salamis flavoured with peppercorns, fennel and anise, and black olives, as well as excellent coppa hams, including one cured with honey. Martin Edwards, who makes them, tells me some Italians even whisperingly admit his are better than the ones they get at home. They’re certainly good enough for Jamie Oliver’s crew, who use them at Fifteen Cornwall.Medium salami, about £11; half coppa, about £15; delifarmcharcuterie.co.uk

SUMMER LOVIN’

My top tipple this summer has to be Godminster cucumber vodka. Brilliantly refreshing when served with traditional lemonade.

£22 for 35cl, from godminster.com

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