Kerala is the spice garden of India and I will always associate the cooking with freshness. The spices are growing at their doorstep and are used so well that no single spice dominates – just flavourful harmony.

While we don’t grow these spices in our backyard, we can easily find them not too far away or even via the computer screen. Look for large, minty-green fennel seeds for the best flavour. White poppy seeds will need to be bought from an Indian shop but are worth the trip – they are versatile, nutty and enrich any dish you add them to.

Like many recipes, I have simplified this one a little; in case you want to go the whole way, finely slice a couple of shallots and fry until well browned, add the curry leaves at this stage, let them sizzle, then stir them into the finished dish for an extra layer of flavour and texture.

Serves 6

Ingredients

20g fresh ginger, peeled and chopped

7 large cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped

3 tbsp vegetable oil

1 medium onion, peeled and chopped

salt, to taste

750g chicken pieces, skinned and jointed

2 medium–large tomatoes, puréed

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