Emily Ford
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Matadors, insects and graffiti are a strange mix, but this bizarre combination inspired the biggest thrill of James Lawrence’s career. The menswear accessory designer’s dream moment came when his collection was awarded one of the most sought-after prizes in young fashion design – the River Island Gold Award – at Graduate Fashion Week 2006.
Lawrence still seems genuinely surprised to have won. When he was 18, an art foundation course convinced him that his interest lay in fashion.
“I fell in love with the creativity – drawing, fabrics, pattern cutting,” he says.
At college he did his first fashion show. “We were told that if your collection came out near the end then it was one of the best. Mine came out last. I thought, ‘Maybe I’m quite good at this’,” he says.
While studying fashion design at Northumbria University, an industry placement in New York confirmed his calling. “I always wanted to do menswear – I’m my own customer.”
A fashion degree builds to one grand finale: Graduate Fashion Week. “It’s the goal. When you start your final year, everyone is talking about it,” he says. Of 45 students in his year, Lawrence’s collection was one of about 20 chosen to show with others from all over the country. He held his breath as the pieces began to fall into place. A lecturer nominated him for the final gala, to show his collection in front of buyers and designers such as Jimmy Choo.
Next, forty finalists were whittled down to ten by fashion judges. Lawrence was interviewed by a panel – including Christopher Bailey, of Burberry, and an editor from Harpers Bazaar – about his outfits based on androgynous tailoring in white, blue and peach. “They said it had a sense of fantasy that made it stand out.”
On the final night, disaster almost struck when two models came out wearing outfits from another collection. “I was devastated, but I’d never thought I’d win. Then they called my name.”
Walking down the catwalk, £20,000 richer, was the “best moment of my life”. He had already secured a job in New York with Abercrombie & Fitch, but new offers started to come in. “A lot of doors opened,” he says. He chose to go to Germany to work for Closed, a high-end fashion house. As part of the prize, winners are allocated a team of mentors for two years to advise on everything from design to careers and finance.
After 16 months working in Germany, Lawrence had his sights set on a new challenge. “I wanted to move into the high street. It’s faster, more exciting.” One of his mentors was from River Island and, after showing the cmpany his portfolio, he was offered a job in men’s accessories.
Eventually, he thinks that he may set up his own fashion label. “Before I won the award it was more of a dream,” he says. “If I decide to try one day, this will definitely help.” www.gfw.org.uk
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