India Knight
Get 20% off your bill at Pizza Express
How vile the fashion industry is, and how tiresome it is always to have to pretend that it is fabulous and gorgeous and somehow magical. The truth is that under the froth - the unimaginably lavish parties, the beauty and the glamour - lurks a black, rotten core. Fashion eats people up and spits them out in a way that sends shivers down your spine: no wonder so many of its former shining stars end up unhinged.
Its defenders say fashion is an industry like any other and that brutality is an inevitable feature of any business, which is true enough - except that other industries aren’t peopled by fragile, eccentric, creative people like Isabella Blow, style queen and sometime fashion director of this newspaper, who killed herself last week, aged 48, by drinking weedkiller.
Blow was a stylist of genius, championed talent, and was possessed of great generosity (as well as the most fabulous figure in London). When she saw Alexander McQueen’s first collection, for instance, she bought the lot and agitated until he received the recognition she was sure he deserved. Until then, she let him live in her basement. Fast forward, and McQueen is a global brand, a squillionaire, and Blow is, well, dead.
And the industry she worked in and felt so passionately about surely had a part to play in that. Few of the fashion superstars she created and supported with every iota of her being ever thought to express their gratitude in a palpable sense and bung a few quid her way. Blow may have been posh but she was not rich, and was positively a pauper compared with her protégés.
Friends of Blow say that although she was motivated by everything other than financial greed, even she could not fail to notice, and eventually become troubled by, the enormous discrepancy in lifestyle and income between her existence and those of her protégés, many of whom became strangely elusive once she’d made them famous.
If she’d worked in any other business, she’d have been an agent or a headhunter and taken a commission for her pains. In fashion, biking round next season’s coat was considered an acceptable alternative. Blow needed a salary commensurate with her talents but never found a real corporate role for herself. Even fashion is populated with bland suits at the top, and the sad truth of the matter is that a woman with bleeding lipstick and a lobster hat is never going to be taken seriously in the boardroom, no matter how great her talent.
No wonder she was depressed. And no wonder, given the milieu in which she existed, that when she checked into the Priory last year everyone gossiped like mad but hardly a fashion soul went to visit her. Her sense of abandonment is said to have contributed to her jumping off a bridge on the way home.
Blow’s story has as extreme an ending as her sartorial style, but in these circles versions of it play themselves out quietly all the time. There is a branch of Alcoholics Anonymous in London where you can’t move for fashion casualties - not something those glossy articles about so-and-so’s fabulous lifestyle ever pick up on.
Someone I know, once so hot in fashion terms that Madonna tried to pick him up on the street in LA, also found himself weeping in the Priory recently; again, you could count his visitors on one hand. Not so hot any more, you see. You have to have exceptional resources if you work in fashion and the intelligence to recognise that the world that matters so much to you may be beautiful, irresistible, alluring, but it is built on illusion and pretence.
The handful who grasp this concept or, miraculously, remain unseduced by it, do very well. Those who were fragile in the first place and came to believe that being chauffeured everywhere, having not one but three personal trainers and being sent presents and lures by fashion houses on a daily basis somehow constituted the real world come a serious cropper when it ends overnight - as end it must - and they’re back alone in their grotty flat in Clapham.
No drivers, no parties, no tables at the Ivy, no presents, no tickets to the shows - oh, and the realisation that all those people who they thought were their best friends couldn’t care less about them. After years spent living in the fantasy world, the real one can come as the most debilitating shock.
Add to that fashion’s fixation with youth and you have a heaving cauldron of unpleasantness. We read and see a great deal about the love affair with youth - 13-year-old models and so on – but the really gruesome stuff goes on behind the scenes, such as the male designers who look completely freakish through excessive plastic surgery (I always wonder about this: if you can make the world’s most beautiful clothes, why can’t you see how unspeakably grotesque you look when you gaze adoringly into your own mirror?).
Then there are the ravages brought on by drugs and drink, and the eating disorders. A famously skinny designer recently took a shine to a friend of mine; once the show was over and everyone had left, the skinny designer took my friend into a little room and proceeded literally to ram handfuls of food into his own mouth, like a slavering animal. Not so chic.
And the sexual excess: a (male, straight) model was once working on a shoot with someone I know. It wasn’t going well; the photographer was grumpy. Everyone took a break and went for a drink, and the model was told to go up to the photographer’s room and “cheer him up” by having sex with him. He protested, as you would, but was told the contract would be lost if he didn’t comply. As he grudgingly went upstairs, everyone in the bar fell about laughing. Call me old fashioned, but it’s not really funny.
I love fashion, and I love clothes, and I admire and respect many of the people who work in the fashion industry. But enough of perpetuating the delusion that this is a charmed world populated by lovely people - and, by extension, a world we all wish we had access to.
The tributes to Isabella Blow in the papers last week were well deserved, but even in those she was depicted as little more than a great eccentric and a creature of fashion. She was more than that: she was a human being with thoughts and feelings that ultimately mattered more to her than all the hats in the world. It’s an ugly story - but then, it’s an ugly business.

India Knight was born in 1965. She lives in London with her three children, writes a weekly column for The Sunday Times, and a weblog, Isn't She Talking Yet?, on bringing up a child with special needs. She has also written two novels, My Life on a Plate and Don't You Want Me?
Industry sectors news at a glance. Interactive heatmap, video and podcast
The inside track on current trends in the charity, not for profit and social enterprise sectors
Explore your passion for food with the delights of Thai, Indian & Chinese cooking
Read our exclusive 100 Years of Fleming and Bond interactive timeline, packed with original Times articles and reviews
Everything the Business Traveller needs to know to make a better trip
Shortcuts to help you find sections and articles
05/2005
£13,500
08/2008
£109,950
2006
£10,750
Great car insurance deals online
£100k
The National Skills Academy for Social Care
London
£49,229 - £62,035 pro rata
Charity Commission
London/Liverpool/Taunton
£75k - £85k
Confidential
London
Six Figure
Rolls Royce
Midlands/Europe
From £89,950
Great Investment, River Views
$3.5 million
Also avaliable for rent
Times Online Property Search will help you find it
Amazing Far East Offers - Visit Hong Kong
from £499pp
Cruise the Islands of Hawaii - Pride of America
List your property with two leading travel websites
Great travel insurance deals online
Contact our advertising team for advertising and sponsorship in Times Online, The Times and The Sunday Times, or place your advertisement.
Times Online Services: Dating | Jobs | Property Search | Used Cars | Holidays | Births, Marriages, Deaths
News International associated websites: Globrix | Property Finder | Milkround
Copyright 2008 Times Newspapers Ltd.
This service is provided on Times Newspapers' standard Terms and Conditions. Please read our Privacy Policy.To inquire about a licence to reproduce material from Times Online, The Times or The Sunday Times, click here.This website is published by a member of the News International Group. News International Limited, 1 Virginia St, London E98 1XY, is the holding company for the News International group and is registered in England No 81701. VAT number GB 243 8054 69.
I am a student at St. Martins & attended a Betsey Johsnon party in Covent Garden on thurs night, I went on a spare of the moment whim wearing faded gap joggers, uggs and a hoodie, no make up and hair that resembled being dragged through a hedge backwards, the party goers looked at me llike I was out of my flipping mind, but actually I wasnt and I may not have been wearing louboutins and prada but, I knocked the socks off of them in terms of attitude and dignity. I had one drink, not ten, no drugs, and a decent convo with betsey (who is very nice may I add) and Hilary Alexandra (Telegraph), I got the numbers I needed, a nice social for a 'school' night and I left with dignity, unlike the others, who I hope felt like prats the next day, the majority were rude, obnoxious, & pretenious. Then again they probably didn't did they India? As you say these people are blind? Friends for the party, not friends for life. A very sad satire life, that I sometimes question my presence within it.
Jessica Seckington, London, South West
Sarah, a decent education may leave one less vulnerable to such frippery. Indeed, it might be the average person's only defense against the onslaught. Celebrity World Inc. is made up of models, presenters, designers and actors mwah, who, for the MOST PART, are deeply insecure, ignorant creatures with an abundance of leisure time, unlimited funds, a regressive need for attention, and an attendant urge to make others feel small in order to make themselves feel bigger. Impressive intellect and depth frightens these twits into submission, and although occasionally one arrives displaying creative genius, it doesn't mean that they should be revered above all else and does not make them responsible, ethical or kind. FashionSheep (uncoolistas) need to fight back; buy these cynical ranges and return them the next day; 'it looked so nice in the wardrobe!'. Disposable craving sated. You wouldn't catch Isabella queuing at TS. Anorexia doesn't exist in refugee camps. RIP Isabella nice-on-the-inside
CAE, London, UK
When I read of the death of Isabella Blow, it made me realise just what a vicious cycle the fashion industy is.
Noone wants to promote eating disorders, drung abuse or child rearing, but at the same time when you go to London Fashion Week, you don't want to see chubby people, how can they be inspirational or envious if there is not an element of the unattainable?
And when lypo, botox and whatever else people are doing nowadays can make a fifty year old look 20, 20 is not going to look so unattainable anymore hence why the 13 year olds are now coverted to model the latest rends. Just the same, with Linsey Lohan, Mary-kate Olsen and Nichole Ritchie showing the masses how quickly the pounds can be shed- Skinny just isn't enough hence eating disorders and hunger killing drugs a go-go.
The more you adhere to the fashion indistry- the more you starve, striaghten and "perfect," the more extreme the system has to go to keep you eyes wide. It's never going to be enough.
Sarah, Cardiff, Wales
When I read of the death of Isabella Blow, it made me realise just what a vicious cycle the fashion industy is.
Noone wants to promote eating disorders, drung abuse or child rearing, but at the same time when you go to London Fashion Week, you don't want to see chubby people, how can they be inspirational or envious if there is not an element of the unattainable?
And when lypo, botox and whatever else people are doing nowadays can make a fifty year old look 20, 20 is not going to look so unattainable anymore hence why the 13 year olds are now coverted to model the latest rends. Just the same, with Linsey Lohan, Mary-kate Olsen and Nichole Ritchie showing the masses how quickly the pounds can be shed- Skinny just isn't enough hence eating disorders and hunger killing drugs a go-go.
The more you adhere to the fashion indistry- the more you starve, striaghten and "perfect," the more extreme the system has to go to keep you eyes wide. It's never going to be enough.
Sarah, Cardiff, Wales
The world of fashion and the fashionable has not changed one iota during many a long year. It has always been a brittle, sparkling, superficial world masking deep ambitions. The sheer ruthlessness with which these people so charmingly carve their route through their profession is well documented. Unfortunately all this only adds to the glamour of the dark legend, thus ensuring its very survival.
TRASH DESTINY, Sydney, Australia
When I read of the death of Isabella Blow, it made me realise just what a vicious cycle the fashion industy is.
Noone wants to promote eating disorders, drung abuse or child rearing, but at the same time when you go to London Fashion Week, you don't want to see chubby people, how can they be inspirational or envious if there is not an element of the unattainable?
And when lypo, botox and whatever else people are doing nowadays can make a fifty year old look 20, 20 is not going to look so unattainable anymore hence why the 13 year olds are now coverted to model the latest rends. Just the same, with Linsey Lohan, Mary-kate Olsen and Nichole Ritchie showing the masses how quickly the pounds can be shed- Skinny just isn't enough hence eating disorders and hunger killing drugs a go-go.
The more you adhere to the fashion indistry- the more you starve, striaghten and "perfect," the more extreme the system has to go to keep you eyes wide. It's never going to be enough.
Sarah, Cardiff, Wales
Well done India , I'm sure your article has hit many a raw nerve. It's true, the fashion industry often abandons those who give it the most. Many sad stories there.
Chrissa , Sheffield,
At one time in my life I thought models were pretty women,but todays models are rather grotesque.What happened?Did I change or did the models?I think it's the models.I still see pretty women,they're just not models.The whole fashion scene has become like a science fiction novel,off this planet.The funny thing is that as the fashion wheels turn,every once in a while I'm in fashion again.That is just so odd.Sort of puts the whole thing in perspective,doesn't it?
ron, toronto,
i don't think there are many people out there who think the fashion industry is "populated by lovely people" most of us know it is populated by coke addled control freaks.
you fail to mention in this article that izzy blow also had ovarian cancer and, sadly, had been unable to conceive the child she wished for. two major factors in the depression that eventually lead to her death.
i'm tired of lazy journalists who miss out mass swathes of fact just to make a neat story.
mab, midlands, UK
So utterly and sadly true. High fashion - like any form of celebrity - attracts those who want and need attention. Of course there are the great talents, but unfortunately they are marginalised if they do not know how, or are not willing to play the game. Creativity meets brutality equals success. No other formula will work. High fashion is an ego machine that caters to and is populated by just that - egos and often, yes, fragile ones. It is perhaps the most superficial of all forms of celebrity and the idiots within its confines do not realise that they only matter to each other and no one else, and that this, too, is fleeting.
meg, Hong Kong,
Fashion must indeed be a unique world. Where else would a straight man be crazy enough to agree to sleep with another MAN just to keep his job... as for the poverty, relative inequality, losers and failures, and fair weather friends - try working in... journalism!
Jason, London,
the latest desire for very young 'models' is just another way of modern paedophilia and encouraged by grown ups. if the media, in all its forms, would stop glorifying this world there would be less interest. why does every fashion advert have to have a 'sex' aspect? with the modern version of parenthood which forbids any kind of 'discipline' authorities and parents are also to blame.
Menachem, Jerusalem, Israel
A sad and disturbing truth about fashion - and celebrity - one might add!
A great article - well done!
Marianne, Denmark,
It was sad to read the case of Isabella Blow
I do not believe she will be remembered in 10 years time, this is even more tragic
Rest her Soul in Peace
Nicholas Iles, Oswestry, Shropshire
I agree with every word!
It's an industry that destroys lives. Many , many lives.
Mark, London, Uk
It is for articles like this that I read the Times.
Mark, Dublin, Ireland
I pay my heartfelt tributes, homage and eulogies to Isabella for her enormous talent, vast tinge of creativity and primadonna strature and reputation in the fashion industry. Why blame fashion industry alone as some "ugly business" , with all its glitz, glamour and allurement all garbed with the underlying loneliness and seclusion. If we take a peep into the lives of men and women with the creative bent of mind, be it authors, painters, artists etc, they live in a fantasy world of their own. Outwardly they are extroverts with flamboyant personalities, duly attached to the exterior world, but their heart and souls are often laden with a sense of remorse and disillusionment .Creativity bring with it the flux of exuberance and some mood swings . Fashion industry is no such exception. They lead a freakish lifestyle with a hollow state of vacuity and are more often than not allured to alcohol and drugs. The road to star spangled fame and limelight at times creates the road of perdition.
Sanjeev Dheer, new delhi, India
A very thoughtful piece of writing. I hope some of these models and designers are examining their consciences.
Tony, barcelona, spain
Thank you for this thoughtful and kind piece. I met Isabella only once, in 2004 at a dinner in Beijing. We sat next to each other for two hours and it was one of those times when you knew that this was a truly special individual you had chanced upon. I still can not properly grasp this turn of events.
AIB, Shanghai, PRC
I was a huge fan of Isabella's and am very saddened by her death. That said...
Unless one is intimate with the details of how Isabella conducted her financial affairs, it is guesswork at best to blame her lack of funds on an entire industry of people. Also, let's keep some perspective here: How poor is someone, really, who has the lifestyle Isabella had? As if having to pay McQueen in weekly installments of £100 for his entire graduate collection is something over which we should gasp and weep.
As for blaming her death on the fashion industry, that makes as much sense as blaming the suicides of countless writers, actors, and comedians on their respective industries. Yes, you take knocks in those businesses, but find me a way of earning your crust which doesn't impart some hardships along the way. Isabella did not need the whole of the fashion industry to descend upon her in the Priory, but the few close friends on whom she could count. She had them, and mental illness. Poor thing.
Jackie Danicki, Cincinnati, USA
Sounds like the fashion industry treats its members much like race-dog owners treat their charges once they are no longer useful.
Neil Murphy, Cromer,